For those who ask what is carbon monoxide poisoning, they should know that the effects of one of the deadliest gases around can be at worse fatal, and at best, lead to serious health problems.

Ideally, fuels such as gas, coal and wood burn cleanly and provide heat for the home and office without any problems.

But when an appliance is not serviced regularly, or indeed, not installed, or repaired properly, then you’ve got potential danger of carbon monoxide poisoning.

Known by the initials CO, carbon monoxide is so deadly because it’s a poisonous gas that cannot be smelt, seen, or tasted.

This is why the authorities come down hard on people who think that they can install, service and repair gas appliances without the necessary training and paperwork. It should be remembered that the law states that only those engineers on the Safe Gas Register can do such work on a gas appliance. Gas boilers and fires, and other such fuelled appliances, cannot be DIY tasks. And you do so at your peril.

Carbon monoxide poisoning can occur even if you breathe in small amounts of the gas. What’s more, exposure to the gas over a of period of time, can lead to serious health problems such as paralysis and brain damage.

So everyone should try and be aware of the symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning. Simply put, the symptoms can be similar to those suffering from tiredness, food poisoning, flu and all number of viral infections. People with such symptoms, who live in homes with gas appliances, should always ask themselves whether their diagnosis is right. Of course, some common sense is required, but it is worth being aware that exposure to carbon monoxide can happen over a period of time from a faulty gas appliance. This is why appliances should be regularly serviced and regularly checked for faults.

Six of the main things that you may be suffering from carbon monoxide poisoning are: dizziness, headaches, breathlessness, nausea, collapse and loss of consciousness.

Now there are some clues as to whether a home-based appliance might be the cause of such symptoms. It may be that you have similar symptoms to above, but only when at home. It may be that you feel better once you’ve left home, but the symptoms return when you go back home. Or that others around you in the house appear to have the same symptoms and this goes for pets as well.

If you suspect that you are suffering from carbon monoxide poisoning, to whatever degree, take immediate steps. Open all doors and windows immediately, turn off all appliances, and leave the house, and alert your energy company if you suspect a leak. Do not return until a qualified gas engineer has checked your appliances. And see a doctor to check you over for a signs of poisoning.

With CO, always err on the side of caution

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Tags: British Gas, carbon monoxide, Carbon Monoxide Poisoning, Central Heating, Combination Boiler, Condensing Boiler, electricity, electricity and gas, emissions, energy, energy companies, Energy Efficiency, Gas, Heating, Heating and Hot Water, Hot Water, Poisoning

Dealing with an air-locked pipe is a great DIY technique to learn, as it could stop you having to ring a plumber and paying a hefty bill.

A sure sign of an air-locked pipe is when a tap is opened and no water comes out.““

Right, so here’s what to do. Get yourself a length of hose with the correct clips at each end which will allow you to secure it on the taps in question.

Secure one end of the hose onto the tap which appears blocked. The other end you secure to a working direct feed tap, which is usually the cold water tap situated on the kitchen sink. With the hose securely in place, open both taps at the same time which will use the pressure of the mains water to act as a powerful force which expels the air out of the pipes. Keep this up for at least ten minutes and then close the air-locked tap first. If it hasn’t worked straight away, then keep trying until you find that the air lock has been banished. Once it’s all done and dusted, remove the hose, but take it off the higher of both taps first, then take it off the lower one and drain it into the sink.

If you think that you have an air lock in more than one tap, then clear it from the lowest one, as this should clear all airlocks in the system.

If this doesn’t work and the problem is in the cold water pipes, fed by the cistern in the attic, then you could try another method of blowing out the airlock. Take a length of hose and push it into the outlet pipe in the tank. At the other end of the pipe, open the tap, and blow through the hose to get rid of the lock.

If both methods fail, then there is another trick you can try, although its involves a fair bit of effort. First, drain the system completely by opening all the taps and turning off the water feed. Once the system is drained of all water, visit each tap and close them until they are roughly three-quarters closed. Then, making sure all the taps are thus positioned, turn the water supply back on. Go around to the taps again and fiddle with them until a steady, but light flow of water comes from each. Go around them again, starting with the lowest taps first, and adjust them up to the half-open mark. Do the same again, in the same order, until all the taps are now in the three-quarters open position. Make sure all the air has been dispelled, and turn all taps to a position in which the flow is minimal. As the last step, close all the taps. The system should have no air inside.

So there you are, dealing with an air-locked pipe needn’t be so difficult afterall.

Tags: air-locked, British Gas, DIY, pipes, Plumbing

When it comes to nominating plumbing tools, the top 10, then up there amongst the stars has to be the sink auger.

It’s also known as a drum auger, or canister auger. DIY bods and plumbers alike swear by it. And it has a simple function: it breaks up and clears clogs in sinks and tubs. It doesn’t work in toilets, so when it comes to unlocking them, get a special toilet auger.

Now, in case you’re wondering what a sink augur looks like, it’s not that complicated. It’s a round, drum canister, with a crank handle and has wound inside it a flexible cable, complete with a steel augur bit right at the end. As the drum turns, a thumbscrew ensures that the cable and augur bit also turn.

Right, so how do you use it. Pick up the drum auger and loosen the thumbscrew. Remove the sink stopper and carefully extend the auger cable right into the drain. Once you feel the cable is right up against the clog, pull out about another feet of cable and re-tighten the thumbscrew.

Start turning the crank handle and continue until you feel the auger bit end has worked though the clog. This is usually the end of it if the clog is situated in the sink trap. And once the water begins to flow properly again, drain through some hot water and cleaning chemical.

If the cable has gone past the trap and still the clog hangs on, then you will need to remove the trap.

Start by getting under the trap and undo the appropriate nuts with a spanner, ensuring you catch all the waste water which comes out. Repeat the process with the auger described above and again work the bit end until you feel the clog. Tighten the thumbscrew and begin cranking. And once you have worked through the clog, don’t forget the hot water and chemical cleaner.

And once the job is completed, don’t forget to reward the plumbing tools top ten gadget by giving it a good clean, let the cable dry and treat it with a special steel lubricant. It can then go back in the cupboard until the next blockage and you need its help.

Tags: British Gas, DIY, Plumbing Tools

Keep your gas fire safe at all times is a good rule to remember.

And this really comes down to making sure that your gas fire is properly vented. This is a must, because it is the vent that takes the exhaust gases, produced by the combustion process, from the fireplace to the outside.

And bear in mind that a direct-vent is the best type to have, both in terms of energy efficiency and safety. A direct-vent will help to keep your gas fire safe. It works by bringing in outdoor air for the combustion process into the firebox via a pipe. Another pipe takes the exhaust gases back out.

This basically means that the firebox is sealed, and therefore safer, and more efficient because it is using external air, rather than the already heated room air, for the combustion process.

There are of course other types of venting, including natural draft venting, power venting and vent free.

With natural draft venting, the combustion exhaust gases are removed from the firebox by drawing them upwards, via the chimney flue. With this system, a draft hood isolates the burner, meaning that it is not effected by the outside pressure fluctuation, as it uses air from the room.

Power venting systems are rare, as it requires an electric fan to make the process work. This works well where no conventional flue is possible and little room air is used.

Vent free is not recommended and should be avoided at all costs. Don’t try this at home, because it means there is no safe way for the exhaust gases to escape.

Right, a few tips on getting maximum efficiency from your gas fire. Firstly, if you don’t plan to use it for some time, switch off the pilot light. Secondly, don’t forget to periodically clean the fireplace glass, as this helps the transfer of heat. Thirdly, when using your gas fire, remember to turn down your main heating system. Finally, keep a check on your thermostats to make sure you are not making your gas fire, or heating system, work too hard.

Now, as regards safety, there are a few things you should always remember.

Firstly, keep the area around the fireplace clean. Most importantly, have your gas fire serviced at least one a year. Do not attempt this yourself. It is a job that has to be completed by a recognised gas engineer. You cannot do it yourself, nor can you get handy andy around to do it for you.

And whereas it used to be that only CORGI gas registered engineers could legally work on a gas appliance, it’s now engineers which are on the Gas Safe Register, run by The Health and Safety Executive. This took over from the CORGI gas registration process on 1 April, 2009, and was brought to improve service levels and benefits. Details can be found at the website www.gassaferegister.co.uk, or by telephoning 0800 408 5500.

Right, some more safety tips to end with. If you’re operating a new gas fire for the first time, always follow the manufacturer’s instructions and do as they say. Do not play around with the design and the fixtures and fittings; a gas fire should not be modified to suit your home. If the pilot light has gone out, always wait at least five minutes before trying to relight it. If you think your gas fire is giving off bad smells, or fumes, shut it down straight away, open the windows and phone the gas company. And think about installing a carbon monoxide detector in your room as an added precaution.

And, finally, keep all the vents free. Never block them or restrict the, because without them, you could die.

Tags: Boiler, British Gas, carbon monoxide, DIY, Gas Fire

When it comes to nominating plumbing tools, the top 10, then up there amongst the stars has to be the sink auger.

It’s also known as a drum auger, or canister auger. DIY bods and plumbers alike swear by it. And it has a simple function: it breaks up and clears clogs in sinks and tubs. It doesn’t work in toilets, so when it comes to unlocking them, get a special toilet auger.

Now, in case you’re wondering what a sink augur looks like, it’s not that complicated. It’s a round, drum canister, with a crank handle and has wound inside it a flexible cable, complete with a steel augur bit right at the end. As the drum turns, a thumbscrew ensures that the cable and augur bit also turn.

Right, so how do you use it. Pick up the drum auger and loosen the thumbscrew. Remove the sink stopper and carefully extend the auger cable right into the drain. Once you feel the cable is right up against the clog, pull out about another feet of cable and re-tighten the thumbscrew.

Start turning the crank handle and continue until you feel the auger bit end has worked though the clog. This is usually the end of it if the clog is situated in the sink trap. And once the water begins to flow properly again, drain through some hot water and cleaning chemical.

If the cable has gone past the trap and still the clog hangs on, then you will need to remove the trap.

Start by getting under the trap and undo the appropriate nuts with a spanner, ensuring you catch all the waste water which comes out. Repeat the process with the auger described above and again work the bit end until you feel the clog. Tighten the thumbscrew and begin cranking. And once you have worked through the clog, don’t forget the hot water and chemical cleaner.

And once the job is completed, don’t forget to reward the plumbing tools top ten gadget by giving it a good clean, let the cable dry and treat it with a special steel lubricant. It can then go back in the cupboard until the next blockage and you need its help.

Article is from www.britishgasboilers.com

Tags: DIY, Plumbing, Tools

If you want to remove mold, add a fan, it’s that simple.

And let’s be honest, your bathroom, full of water, steam and moisture droplets, attracts mold like there’s no tomorrow. Because once the steam, or moisture, turns to water and hangs around, you’ve effectively created an ideal for mold spores to collect and grow.

You can of course rely on cleaning products that will remove the spores once you spot them, or you can prevent them forming in the first place, which is by far the best plan of action. And the trick is, to get the moist air out of the bathroom before it has chance to condense and turn into water. Job done; or it is, once you’ve got a good fan in place to rid your bathroom of the steam.

So, what you need is an exhaust fan, which is usually mounted in the bathroom and works by sucking in the moist air and expelling it out through an outlet pipe. And once installed, it should stop those unsightly mold spores from forming in the first place.

Now, this all sounds simple, but whereas there’s no standard sized room, there’s also no standard sized fan. And you might even want to get an integral unit, which handily combines a fan and a light for a very useful piece of kit.

And don’t forget, if you are intent on a bit of DIY and installing the fan yourself, you’re going to have to get an electrician to do the final bit of wiring for you.

First, lets have a quick think about the theory of the fans. Two things to consider when buying a fan; firstly, the amount of air that they can literally shift per minute, and secondly, the noise they make.

So, when it comes to capacity, the fan’s muscle power is measured in cubic feet per minute (CFM). In other words, how many cubic feet of air can the fan take out of the room per minute. The better the fan, the more air it can move.

As to noise, this is an important consideration. Look for the measure which shows how much noise the fan makes actually taking the air from the room. The better the fan, the less noise it will make.

Right, so first things first, if you intend installing your own fan. Get one that will efficiently move the right amount of air that suits your room size and one that doesn’t sound like an industrial sized wind tunnel.

Once you’ve bought the fan, read the instructions and make sure you take note of all the installation recommendations. Ensure you’re fan comes with an exhaust duct kit, or that you buy one. This is especially important if it’s a new fan installation, as without it, you won’t be able to get the moisture outside.

Then check you’ve got the right tools. You’ll need a couple of screwdrivers (Phillips and flat-head), a drill and a small saw.

If it’s a new installation, chances are that you will just be able to take the old fan off and replace it with a new one. It might be that you have to drill new holes, but it can make the job quite easy. Don’t forget to get an electrician to complete the wiring for you, as this is safer for everyone involved.

If it’s a new fan installation completely, then it’s a bit trickier. You need to open a hole in the ceiling for the fan to fit and then find a space for the duct kit to fit. The duct kit basically consists of ducting (a flexible tube) that fits onto one end of the fan and then feeds out into the outside air. This might be through the attic, or out of an external wall. Ensure that all spaces around the protuberance are sealed, otherwise draughts will play around with the efficiency of the fan.

And once fitted, your bathroom should be able to breath a lot easier, meaning no more mold, and no more biological experiments growing in one of the most important rooms in your house.

Tags: Boiler, Boiler Replacement, DIY, fan, Mold

With the snow falling and the country whipped by icy winds, it can pay dividends if you have a think about how to keep yourself warm.

Here are a few things that might be worth considering and it all comes down to being frugal.

If your house is getting too cold, think about getting out for a bit. Maybe visit a friend, or a relative, whose house might be warmer; or even go to the shops, or a shopping mall. This are usually well heated and a cup of hot coffee in one of the cafes could give you a nice warming treat. And the car journey there should thaw you out.

Back to your house. Have you considered buying a portable heater, one that allows you to heat a room separately without using the main system. Remember to warm the room first, then keep topping it up when necessary.

And when sitting down, an electric blanket might be a good idea to help keep you warm. But don’t be afraid to move about, as this will stimulate your own personal heating system and maintain a good body temperature.

Furthermore, whilst you’re in your house, don’t pick the Bermuda shorts on a cold day. Dress appropriately, with thick trousers, a long sleeve shirt and a thick sweater. This will enable you to keep the heating off for longer.

Check out your heating controls. Don’t let the heating come on too early, or stay on too long, and keep an eye on the thermostat. Someone has worked out that for every degree down on the dial, you could save yourself 10% off the annual heating bill. Not bad.

But before you become too obsessed with your heating system, check that your house has its windows shut properly and all draughts kept at bay with rolled up blankets etc.

Is your roof insulated? If not, then over one quarter of your heat could be pouring out the top, so it would be a good investment to get it done and there might be a number of grants and financial schemes to help you. You might also consider double-glazing, or wall insulation. These are quite big projects, but will definately save your money. Again, have a look around to see what grants are available.

And don’t forget to reduce your energy consumption by making sure all your appliances are off their stand-by settings; that you only boil the kettle with the amount of water you need; that you choose energy saving light bulbs; take showers not baths; avoid using the dishwasher frequently; turn the washing machine temperature down to nearer 30C; and, get yourself a microwave; these can cook meals in a fraction of the time of a conventional cooker.

And finally, on cold days, remember to draw your curtains as soon as the sun dips, or the light begins to fade, as this will help keep the heat in.

So there you are, take a few precautions and help yourself save a fortune during the winter.

Tags: budget, Central Heating, Combination Boiler, Health

If you want to know how to fit loft insulation in a way that helps you save the maximum amount of money, then look no further than here.

If you haven’t got your loft insulated at all, then do it as soon as possible. If you think your loft hasn’t been insulated for some good few years, then consider doing it again, as products have moved on and now have far better insulating properties than before.

And the great thing about loft insulation is that it is generally a DIY job; you don’t usually have to have professional help. So not only will it save you money, but it shouldn’t cost an arm and a leg to fit.

First things first.

Loft insulation works by stopping the heat escaping out of the top of the house. So the insulation materials trap the heat and don’t let it pass. Bear this in mind when fitting your particular type of insulation material. Don’t stretch it too much, or squash, and make sure it fits properly into those awkward corners.

Insulation materials vary a lot and their abilities to retain the heat are being enhanced all the time.

Most is made up of mineral fibre, or fiberglass, which ranges in thickness from four inches to eight inches. You should always choose rolls which are eight inches thick, as they are more efficient, and because they come as rolls, they can be handled easily, cut and placed easily into position.

Insulation materials also come loose, for example vermiculite, and the great advantage with these is that they can be poured between joists, and into tight spaces, to the desired levels, where sometimes rolls might not fit properly.

For any person contemplating doing their own loft insulation, it’s best to pop down to one of the local DIY stores and take some time choosing the material that will suit you. And even get some of the assistants to help you as well, because all help and advice is very useful when choosing the correct material for your property.

And once you have your materials ready, do a few basic things before you start.

First, think about your loft. Everyone takes it for granted there will be a hatch, but not all lofts are so well blessed, or have a hatch that a human might fit through. So, make sure you can access your loft properly and if you reach it via using a step-ladder, then make sure that it is secured tightly.

Once in the loft, don’t attempt the usually tight-ropewalker routine around the roof joists. Individual joists are not always able to support your weight and if you slip, you could be right through into the room below.
So, it’s best to place a wide plank, or stout board across say three joists and spread your weight properly.

Next, don’t try to peer through the gloom whilst working. Get a light rigged up into the loft. This will enable you to work safely and to see the corners and crannies which need special attention.

Check whether your loft has good enough ventilation, as too little, once you’ve rolled out your insulation material, could cause condensation. Always make sure there is a good flow of air in the attic above your insulation.

And before you lay down the material, make good any repairs in the ceiling, as all your work could be for naught if you don’t repair holes and cracks. Also, have a quick look around to see what else is in the attic, say maybe a water tank, which should not be covered of course. Pipes are okay, but you don’t want to be covering electric cables, and there is a slight possibility that their heat might cause a fire when covered. It’s unlikely, but you’d best err on side of caution. Cables should be checked for any signs of wear, then, re-routed above the installation material. Call in an electrician to do this, as a qualified person needs to handle such things. Finally, just check that there is no insect infestation in the loft space: no rodents, birds, or flies that might welcome a nice warm home.

When it comes to estimating the amount of insulation material you will need, measure your loft space and work with the manufacturer’s instructions. That’s why a trip to your store before you start is a good idea, as they will be able to help you calculate the amount you need.

Now, a word about safety. We’ve mentioned not prancing about the loft like a circus performer, but you also have to remember that insulation material, because its made out of glass fibre, or dust producing materials, can be a irritant to your throat and your skin. So, when you’re working with such materials, cover your skin with overalls and wear a face mask. And dispose of any waste properly.

When it comes to the process of laying the chosen materials in your loft, always read the manufacturer’s instructions thoroughly. Begin by ensuring that your loft is free of dust and debris, or anything that might catch on, or impede the material.

If you’re using rolls of material, then start at the eaves and work towards centre of the loft (rolling them out from the eaves). Do not stretch, or force them too much; just ensure that they are pushed firmly into the appropriate crevices.

Once the roll comes to the centre, cut it as appropriate and marry it up to a joist, or another roll. The trick is, is to create a carpet of fluffy insulation material which fits as snugly as possible. Cut and trim the material to fit around those odd protuberances and don’t forget to create a snug fit for the loft hatch.
If you’re laying loose fill insulation material, bear in mind that this stuff will pour out of any gaps, so you have to make sure that the joists in effect create a tight box like structure (especially under the eaves), which can then be filled with the granular material.

Two things to bear in mind with such materials. Sometimes, the average joist height of between four to six inches is just not deep enough to create the depth of material, so you might have to extend the height of the boards. In a large loft, this could entail quite a bit of time and some considerable expense. Secondly, loose fill material could get blown about in a windy loft, so ensure that there is adequate ventilation, but not a tornado.

Okay, that’s it. Spend some time insulating your loft and it will save you money; there’s no doubt about that: experts reckon on at least £250 a year for the average house.

For More DIY Articles visit http://www.britishgasboilers.co.uk/

Tags: Boiler, British Gas, Central Heating, DIY, Fuel Bills, Loft Insulation