When you consider the question how to groom a rabbit, it’s best to bear in mind that a rabbit is quite a sensitive creature and care should be taken with its general health regime.

Lets take a look at the main areas on a rabbit that might cause concern.

Skin

As with humans, a rabbit’s skin can tell a lot about the state of its health. So keep an eye open for bald patches, or flaky skin that might cause the rabbit to scratch. This might be caused by fleas, or mites although owners should bear in mind that many of the common flea treatments are not appropriate for rabbits.

The types of flea treatments that can be used on rabbits have as their core ingredients, imidocoprid, selamectin and lufenuron. Selamectin is favoured by many, as it also works against mites that can cause ear canker and mange. Fur mites can also be responsible for rabbit dandruff, but as well as the treatments described above, there is also the good old flea comb. But get your rabbit used to the flea comb at an early age and it will learn to love it.

Do not ever use fipronil (core of popular flea control product range Frontline) for rabbits, as it is likely to cause neurological damage and rabbit fatalities. Nor should flea powders, shampoos, baths, or dips be used.

Open sores, or chronic skin conditions, should be shown to the vet as soon as possible.

Shedding

The word shedding describes the replacement of old hair with new, and with a rabbit, this happens around every three months, although there will usually always be a light shedding one time (hardly noticeable), followed by a heavy shedding next. This can take upwards of two weeks.

Rabbits will constantly groom themselves, as being tidy is very important to their self-esteem. But, unlike cats, they cannot bring any fur balls back up by vomiting. And if this situation is allowed to develop, or goes untreated, then the rabbit could die.

But this is why as well as self grooming, rabbits should be meticulously groomed by their owners, especially during the shedding process. And maybe this is particularly relevant when you have a long haired rabbit.

Hair Mats

Do not cut off any hair mats with a pair of scissors, as there is a risk that the rabbit’s skin could be damaged. It should be broken up using a mat rake, or mat splitter

Baths

Having a bath is a great way of cleaning many household pets, but you should never give your rabbit a bath, no matter how well meaning. Rabbits do no like getting wet and a bath will be a very stressful affair.

And owners should also know that a wet rabbit can quickly turn into a hypothermic rabbit. So if your rabbit gets wet, use a blow-dryer on the gentle heat ‘warm’ setting to dry both the pet’s top coat and undercoat; although be extremely careful not to irritate, or damage the skin whilst doing this.

Nails

Bunnies that spend their lives indoors will need their toe nails cutting at regular intervals. Follow techniques similar to cats and dogs. And whilst trimming the nails, have a quick look at the rabbit’s skin on their feet, especially if the fur has been worn down. Check for calluses, or urine burns.

Teeth

Have a look at your rabbit’s teeth everytime you give it a groom. Check that they are wearing down properly. Everyday chewing will keep them from growing too long (they are growing all the time), or becoming crooked. If either of these happens, then take the rabbit to se a vet for treatment with special clippers.

Eyes

If a rabbit’s eyes water, or show signs of a discharge, then this needs to be examined by a vet as treatment might be necessary.

Ears

Ear wax can be problem, so it can be lifted out with a cotton swab, but as with humans, do not push the wax back into the ear canal, otherwise damage can be caused. If there are signs of mites, use one of the treatments described above.

Tags: bunnies, Bunny, Pet, Pet Care, Pet Guide, Pet Insurance, rabbit care, Rabbits

When it comes to the question of how to look after bunny, things have moved on since rabbits were left at the bottom of the garden and thrown the odd carrot.

Modern thinking is that the bunny should be a valued pet and treated accordingly. And, generally, bunny experts now say that your bunny should be kept in your house, rather than out doors.

They highlight the fact the bunnies are very social animals that need affection and benefit from a lot of human interaction. Banishing a rabbit to a draughty, small and dirty cage is the worse that can happen to such creatures.

For those that might be slightly horrified at the thought of the bunny being given houseroom, then it might come as a welcome surprise to know that a rabbit will use a litter box. And that with spayed and neutered animals, the practice of marking territory is less common, making it a clean pet for the household. Spaying and neutering also makes a rabbit less aggressive, reduces tendency to chew everything around and provides the animal with a longer, and healthier life.

It is recommended that male rabbits are neutered between three and six months of age (consider that it should be done before sexual maturity) and that a female is spayed between six to eight months. If you’re rabbit is over two years old, it’s best to get them thoroughly checked over first by a vet to make sure spaying and neutering is a safe option.

So, you can confidently let your rabbit have the run of your house. But, start gradually; do not let your bunny suddenly have complete freedom. Create a cage in a convenient part of your house. Look where your rabbit chooses to go to the toilet and place the litter box there. You might have to place other litter trays in strategic locations throughout the house, but once potty trained so to speak, you can let them out. You can enforce good toilet habits with treats, but be careful not to coerce your rabbit into a toilet regime, as this may misfire.

When your bunny is out and about, be careful they do not cause damage (rabbits love to chew) and especially keep electrical cables out of their way. Make sure they have a number of rabbit toys around.

As to rabbit etiquette whilst they are out and about, do show your bunny care and attention, and do make sure they are not in danger from boisterous dogs, or temperamental cats.

Rabbits are generally healthy, but do suffer from a number of ailments. One of the main problems is that rabbits constantly groom themselves and so create furballs which, unlike cats, they cannot vomit back up. So, keep an eye open for this and if you suspect that your bunny is suffering from such a condition – look for decreased appetite and fewer droppings – get advice from a vet. To avoid it happening in the first place, provide a high fibre diet (plenty of hay); plenty of exercise; and, good grooming with a comb and brush.

Don’t be tempted to give your rabbit sweets, or refined sugar base products. Also, avoid them getting too hot and if they start with cold symptoms, take them to see a vet. Indeed, go to a vet if you see listlessness with diarrhoea; sudden loss of appetite; runny nose; head tilt; sudden behavioural changes; laboured breathing; urine stains on coat; or, lumps and swellings.

So, when it comes to how to look after your rabbit, there’s a number of things you should make sure you have around.

It should of course have a home and the type will be dictated as to the pet’s location, inside, or outside the house. The house, if outside, should come equipped with a run and if inside, there should be some way of transporting the rabbit to the garden (say with a bunny box).

You will then need feeders, litter box (plus litter), rugs that are washable, toys, water bottles, boxes within the house to help the rabbit exercise, and a plentiful supply of rabbit feed, fresh fruit and water.

Thought must be given to getting grooming equipment and creating a small bunny medical kit, which should include cotton wool swaps, styptic powder and flea control products.

For cleaning the bunny house, make sure you have to hand white vinegar (which is great for a general clean-up) and bleach. Also, keep plenty of newspapers to lay in the bottom of the rabbit’s house, to soak up any little oversights.

Tags: bunnies, Bunny, Grooming, Pet Care, Pet Guide, Pets, rabbit, Rabit Car

When it comes to the U.K.’s newest and rare fish, there is currently a lot of choice for the discerning buyer.

The small selection mentioned below are available in most of the U.K.’s specialist fish shops.

First up is the rarely seen Green Kribensis (common name) which has the scientific name of Pelvicachromis Sacrimontis. Around 10cm in length, this species originates from West Africa and likes soft acidic water. It feeds on bloodworm, brineshrimp and dried foods. You can expect to pay around £20 a pair.

Next comes the filter-feeding South American cichlid Chaetobranchopsis Orbiculari. Originally from Brazil, Bolivia and Paraguay, this fish is around 15cm and likes soft, acidic water. Only really likes frozen daphnia, or brineshrimp. Hard to find, so difficult to price.

The freshwater Hora Danio (Devario Shamensis) measures about 7cm and originates from Burma. Preferring a slightly alkaline water, it feeds on flake and bloodworm. Around £4 for a good example.

The Brittanichthys Axelrodi is a very unusual characiform fish from the Rio Negro basin. Less than half-an-inch long, it originates from many parts of South America. Insects, plankton and detritus are good feeds. Will set you back about £9 each.

The African glass catfish Parailia Pellucida is not just confined to the west Coast of Africa, but also finds its way to Egypt and Sudan. About 15cm in length, it is adaptable to most types of water, but prefers a neutral rating. It feeds on plankton, brineshrimp and bloodworm. You can get one for around £3.50.

The recently discovered snakehead Channa Pulchra is from South East Asia and likes water at around a pH level of around 6.5. Thought to reach nearly 25cm in length, it feeds mainly on earthworms, mosquito larvae and shrimp. Expect to fork out between £20 and £40 for a good specimen; much depends on size though.

A slightly off-the-wall choice is the Wunderpus Photogenicus, which is an octopus, but it is suited only to a highly experienced aquarist. Originally from the Philippines, Papua New Guinea and the Solomon Islands, it is a fair size, measuring around 40cm from arm tip to arm tip and around 5cm in the body. Likes live shrimp, but will go with larger frozen food and other forms of shellfish. Don’t expect many of them to be around and also check the price first: they range from £150 to £200.

Tags: Brittanichthys Axelrodi, Channa Pulchra, cichlid Chaetobranchopsis Orbiculari, Fish, Green Kribensis, Hora Danio, Parailia Pellucida, Wunderpus Photogenicus

It used to be quite a simple job choosing an aquarium, but not now, as there are so many examples on the market.

So, when it comes to your favourite fish, what should you bear in mind when considering their home.

Firstly, think about the glass. It must be of high quality and of the correct thickness. As a guide, for those aquaria which have a water depth of more than 44cm, the glass must be at least 6mm thick. When aquaria are more than 90cm in length, they also should have 6mm thick for depths up to 45cm, and over that, the glass thickness has to be increased 10mm.

You don’t have to us glass of course; acrylic is an option, but bear in mind that there are pros and cons for each one. On the upside, acrylic is stronger and lighter than glass; can be moulded into any shape without silicon joints; scratches can be polished out; boasts good insulation properties; and, can be drilled. On the downside, it can be marked more easily than glass, and is usually more expensive.

Glass is hard wearing and cheaper than acrylic, but if it does get marked, then it has to be replaced. It can also be brittle and different depths of water require varying thicknesses.

Floating bases are popular, as they do without the need for polystyrene to cushion the aquarium.

Silicone joints which hold together the panels of glass should always be tidy, with no unsightly edges. And all the panels of glass and edges should show no signs of damage, or wear. Keep in mind what lid you’re using and if the aquaria needs any bracing bars, make sure they look in keeping with the overall, clean effect.

Aquaria which are bought off the shelf tend to come in standard sizes, which range from 60cm, to 80cm, 100cm and 120cm.

As a guide to what these size aquaria will hold, a 60cm model is say best for a two smallish goldfish, or, maybe a half dozen (a shoal) of White Cloud Mountain minnows.

Opt for between 80cm and 100cm you can increase the number of goldfish to around six, or, say a small community of Rift Valley cichlids.

With the largest off-the-shelf design, 120cm, it will take a community of goldfish, or say a single large Oscar.

If you want a bigger aquaria than 120cm, it might be best to get one built to order.

When you’ve decided on the size of your aquaria, then you have to think about the styles, which can mainly be divided into three groups: basic, equipped and systemised. First up is the basic one, which is basically a tank with a lid, but with no equipment, or accessories. Equipped is as it sounds. It comes equipped with all you need to have to run an aquarium. A systemised aquarium comes complete with all the equipment needed, plus some additional goodies such as heating, fitted filtration and a protein skimmer.

When you’ve got your aquarium back home, think about where it’s going to be sited.

Keep it away from such things as direct sunlight, sources of loud noise, radiators, draughts and cramped spaces. Do site them near a power source (for the equipment, but not one that can be splashed), a tap (for refills) and a window (avoiding draughts, for draining when necessary).

When it comes to hoods and canopies, there a wide range available, including those with built-in lighting. Look out for hoods that have at least two tubes, allow easy cleaning and have light reflectors.

Cabinets tend to add the finishing touch to an aquarium. It supports the weight of the tank, and comes in a number of styles and designs which can be used to match your own furniture. Make sure it is hardy and utilises the spare space with room for bits of equipment.

Backdrops can also be used to give that final look for an aquaria. There are a number to choose from and they can make the fish seem in their ideal environment.

Tags: Aquarium, goldfish, Oscar, White Cloud Mountain minnows

So you want to live forever, buy a pet.

Well, not quite for ever, but it’s been proven that having a pet can make someone live longer, especially if that someone is recovering from an illness.

Many research reports have shown the links between having a pet and a sense of well-being.

And one of the groups to benefit most has been heart attack victims. In one study, it was discovered that even just the act of watching fish swim around a tank could reduce blood pressure.

This was apparent when a group of patients, awaiting oral surgery, spent some time observing fish swim in a nearby tank. Another group of patients had the same wait, but without the fish. Just before their operation, they were then tested for their general mood, tension and blood pressure reduced. Each was far better – relaxed, muscle tension much reduced and blood pressure down – in the group that had seen the fish, than the other group.

Incredibly, another study showed that those heart attack victims who owned a pet had a better chance of living for more than one year, than those that didn’t.

And people with long term illnesses such as cancer and AIDs, have discovered the calming effects of having a pet, which in turn does something for the human psyche that adults can’t. And this is thought to be down to the fact that humans can focus a great deal of attention to a pet; attention that makes a person feel comforted and also makes them feel as though they are needed, and not just someone who happens to be ill. It’s almost as though the person can live through their affection for their pet. And as animals are mostly non-judgmental, with simple demands and simple hang-ups, they don’t have the stress of fellow human contact.

It has been known for some time that the actual act of patting a dog can bring on a mood of relaxation, even reduced blood pressure in some.

And this is why in many nursing homes, hospitals and hospices, dogs are regularly introduced so that people can enjoy the benefits.

It has also been shown that it doesn’t really matter what type of pet it is. The important thing is that the owner likes it and has a sense of connection.

So next time you’re tempted to tell Fido to go and lay in the kitchen as he snores too much in front of the open fire, just remember, one day, he might just help you get back on your feet! Thank goodness dogs don’t bear grudges.

Tags: Pet Care, Pet Guide, Pet Insurance, Pets

Let’s be honest, pets are now pretty expensive things and in these times of economic hardship quite a few people are thinking of ways of making their money go further when it comes to their dogs and cats especially.

It’s best not to dwell on all those pets which will be cast out onto the streets, or handed over to the sanctuaries because they cost too much, or they have become a nuisance. That is, unfortunately, an inevitable consequence of hard times, but most owners, thank goodness, understand that a pet is a member of a family and cannot simply be cast aside when times get tough.

So, the best thing to do is think about how your pet, like you and others members of your family, can make savings.

Now, one area which needs a little attention is the vet. It’s likely your pet will need some attention throughout its life. A young puppy, or kitten, will best be neutered and this will set you back anywhere from around £50 to £100.

Vets have recently been criticised by many for being far too expensive, but it’s difficult to see their costs coming down, even during harder times. Consultation charges are also a relatively new part of their charging scheme, maybe to combat the consumer’s choice to get a prescription from the vet and buy the prescribed drugs elsewhere, via say the internet. This can help offset a quite major cost, but don’t expect to be able to do surgery via the web! So, the old debate about whether it’s best to have pet insurance raises its head again. Over the lifetime of a dog, or cat, monthly payments of between £10 and £20 can add up, but with even minor operations costing around £200 payable in one go, pet insurance plans might make even more sense.

Right, so after the vet comes the day-to-day maintenance of your pet, in other words, what it needs to survive and maintain its role of favoured one.

And the next big issue is pet food. Way back when, pets were meant to manage on scraps and a few hard biscuits. Now, pet feeding is almost mirroring the human food industry with manufacturers convincing people that their pets need tasty chicken morsels, or lightly barbecued line caught sardine from the Pacific oceans. And look at the results, with many pets looking as obese as their owners. But it’s not easy to turn away from the persuasive powers of a pet food industry which is worth, in the U.K, a staggering £2 billion. That’s a lot of pet food and a lot of hype.

Experts say that the average pet owner spends £3.50 a week on pet food, but with the manufacturers bringing out new varieties all the time, this is climbing quite dramatically.

So, what happens if you want to save money? You have to buy a cheaper brand, or do it yourself, shunning the bright cans and foil trays.

Firstly, if we’re talking mainly about cats and dogs, it’s worth remembering that they are different in regards their nutritional requirements. They are both carnivores and both need six key components to maintain a healthy life: carbohydrates, proteins, fats, minerals, vitamins and minerals.

But then things begin to differ. Dogs only need around ten per cent of their diet to be protein, whereas cats need nearer 25%. This is why dogs can manage on a vegetarian diet, whilst cats can’t. Both get their calories mainly from the cereal in the pet food, but there is no set, or average intake. It’s been calculated say that human males need something like 2,500 calories a day, females around 2,000, but with so many breeds of cats and dogs, doing so many different things, it’s difficult to provide an average intake.

The only guide is that the more active the pet, the more calories it needs. So be careful if your pet is a couch-potato, because you have to keep a check on their carb intake.

As to food itself, meat products are sourced from the same abattoirs that supply the human food chain. So, technically the same meat that is used for humans, can be used for pets. Although, pet food manufacturers mostly use trimmings, offal and cheap cuts. Obviously, as with most food, the more expensive, the better the quality, or at least that’s how the theory goes.

But that does not necessarily rule out cheap pet food by any means. Experts say that as long as the particular brand of food offers a balanced blend of the components mentioned earlier, then there’s no problem. And as a rule of thumb, the less expensive the pet food, the less percentage of meat is included and the more say cereal is used to bulk it out. This can lead to problems with the pet’s weight of course, as the cereal is unnecessary and creates fat.

And in case you were wondering how to tell if it’s good enough, take a look at your pet’s poo. If the poo contains lots of undigested food and there is lots of it around, then it’s not doing your pet much good at all.

So, cheaper brands might save you money, but just be sure that they give your pet a proper diet and won’t make them fat.

But to take it further and make your own, that requires a little thought. And it comes back to all those individual components again. You have to ensure that the food you are providing for you pet has the right balance, otherwise you will be risking their health.

Off-cuts of meat and fish are favourites of the DIY pet food community, but in order to get the balanced bit right, you also have to offer up vegetables and food supplements.

And it’s recommended that you get some advice from your vet, as well as ensuring that you don’t mess your pet around too much, by offering it at a later stage of their lives when they might be too used to tinned pet food, or change your mind at times when you are too busy to prepare the food and so confuse the animal’s digestive system.

Tags: Pet Care, Pet Guide, Pet Insurance, Pets

So you want to live forever, buy a pet.

Well, not quite for ever, but it’s been proven that having a pet can make someone live longer, especially if that someone is recovering from an illness.

Many research reports have shown the links between having a pet and a sense of well-being.

And one of the groups to benefit most has been heart attack victims. In one study, it was discovered that even just the act of watching fish swim around a tank could reduce blood pressure.

This was apparent when a group of patients, awaiting oral surgery, spent some time observing fish swim in a nearby tank. Another group of patients had the same wait, but without the fish. Just before their operation, they were then tested for their general mood, tension and blood pressure reduced. Each was far better – relaxed, muscle tension much reduced and blood pressure down – in the group that had seen the fish, than the other group.

Incredibly, another study showed that those heart attack victims who owned a pet had a better chance of living for more than one year, than those that didn’t.

And people with long term illnesses such as cancer and AIDs, have discovered the calming effects of having a pet, which in turn does something for the human psyche that adults can’t. And this is thought to be down to the fact that humans can focus a great deal of attention to a pet; attention that makes a person feel comforted and also makes them feel as though they are needed, and not just someone who happens to be ill. It’s almost as though the person can live through their affection for their pet. And as animals are mostly non-judgmental, with simple demands and simple hang-ups, they don’t have the stress of fellow human contact.

It has been known for some time that the actual act of patting a dog can bring on a mood of relaxation, even reduced blood pressure in some.

And this is why in many nursing homes, hospitals and hospices, dogs are regularly introduced so that people can enjoy the benefits.

It has also been shown that it doesn’t really matter what type of pet it is. The important thing is that the owner likes it and has a sense of connection.

So next time you’re tempted to tell Fido to go and lay in the kitchen as he snores too much in front of the open fire, just remember, one day, he might just help you get back on your feet! Thank goodness dogs don’t bear grudges.

Tags: Pet Care, Pet Guide, Pet Insurance, Pets

There’s on thing you should know straight away about The Pet Travel Scheme, or, as it’s commonly known, Pet Passports, and that’s you should plan well ahead.

Basically, you can’t bring your pet back to the U.K. within six calendar months of its rabies jab. So if you plan to take Fido with you out of the country on your annual hols, say in July, then you have to get it jabbed in January. And if you want to be doubly sure, then get it jabbed in November of the year before.

Right, more of the timing issues later. Let’s get the official blurb out of the way first.

The system which allows you to take your pet out of the country and back again, is The Pet Travel Scheme (PETS). But, another thing to note, when it says pet, it actually means a dog, cat, or ferret. Quite why a ferret is covered under the scheme, rather than your pet Orangutan (maybe its too big to get into the child seat), this writer isn’t sure. Maybe it’s because ferrets are particularly keen travellers, or maybe, more sensibly, a dog, cat, or ferret, has a greater chance of projection from the existing rabies vaccine. Anyway, suffice to say that your pet crocodile has to stay at home while you’re enjoying the water park in Malaga.

The PETS scheme allows pets (dogs, cats and ferrets) to travel to other European Union (EU) countries and come back to the U.K. Some other non-European countries are included in the scheme as well, but for a full list, go to defra website which has all the information.

So, start early if you want to avoid disappointment.

Next thing to bear I mind, it’s not cheap, because as with most Government initiatives, it basically creates wealth for everyone but you and in this case, a recognised vet. And oh yes, just in case you think you don’t have to bother with such a thing as a pet passport and you think hiding Fido under a blanket in the car is a bit of a wheeze, you should bear in mind that’s against the law and both you and your pet could be doing time (although not in the same place).

Smuggling a pet back into this country without it being inoculated, or doing it secretly, is about as heinous crime as you can commit in this country. The U.K is officially rabies free and if you change that situation, then you’ll go down in history alongside Jack the Ripper.

And even if your pet has had the jab and is brought back earlier than the stipulated six months, you’ll be fined personally and then you’ll foot the bill – some hundreds of pounds a week – for your pooch to be incarcerated at her majesty’s pleasure for the full six months. In short, don’t do it.

Right, so you want to take your dog, cat, or ferret on a trip out of the U.K.

You have to book an appointment with a vet who will take you through the process. At the time of writing, the Pet Passport costs around £138 to administer. Expensive, but when it first came out it was around £200, so we can be grateful for small mercies.

Your vet will give your pet an examination and pass them fit for travel. Firstly, if your pet doesn’t have an identity chip, it will be fitted with one. About the size of a grain, the chip is usually implanted behind the animal’s neck and with a receiver, allows the user to identify the dog with it’s unique number. Even if your dog is not going on his hols, this is a good idea anyway, as it allows your pet to be identified easily if it’s lost.

Next, your pet gets the rabies jab. Then you have to wait 30 days before you take your pet back to the vets for a blood test. A blood sample is taken from the jugular (in the neck; not an easy thing for the vet to do, so maybe wait outside) and sent to the labs for testing. The result should be back to your vet in seven days (leave 14 days to be on the safe side, unless its Christmas, when the post usually goes awry and you might have to wait weeks). If the test is positive (i.e. there are enough rabies antibodies in your pet’s bloodstream to protect them against rabies), the you will be issued a pet passport with all the details. This must be taken with you on all the trips – it’s as important as your passport.

And remember, your animal can’t come back to the U.K within exactly six calendar months. It can leave of course, once it has the passport, it simply can’t return for those six months.

And although nearly all animals pass the blood test, it’s not guaranteed and if it fails, it has to start over again, meaning another 37 days at least to see if it has enough antibodies. Some older animals might struggle, or ones that have been ill, so bear that in mind with your timings. But, it shouldn’t cost you the whole £138 again, as the vet should just charge you the cost of the rabies jab (around £60 at the time of writing) and the test (around £30).

So, there you are. Is Fido worth £138, or possibly £198? Depends on you really. Mind you, how much does two weeks in a kennels cost these days?

For more related pet information visit http://www.pet–insure.co.uk/

Tags: Pet Care, Pet Guide, Pet Insurance, Pet Passport, Pets, Travel

Just a quick aside; I once had a boss that had a Doberman called Conan who wasn’t a bad dog, but didn’t take kindly to being physically messed about. And he judged wash day as being messed about. In fact, he only had one wash day and that involved my boss trying to push him into the shower.

Now, a Doberman is a pretty aggressive dog and when one doesn’t want to have a shower, they generally make their feelings known. My boss, his sensitive side lost to his ambition to having a sweet smelling Conan for a change, approached his canine friend with a particularly expensive brand of tea-tree shampoo and gestures which made it clear that the shower beckoned. What ensued would shock more sensitive readers, but suffice to say that a battle of wills developed, very much along the lines of alpha male trying to dominate another alpha male, which resulted in one bruised boss, a wrecked bathroom and a vow to send Conan to the pet parlour from that day forth.

Okay, story over, but it does bring up the first point when considering washing your dog: can you control him, or her, and are they suitable for home bathing? If you notice your beloved pet curling their lips and growling when you approach with the enriched shampoo and stacks of towels, maybe you should think again.

But, let’s say you have control and the dog will get washed whether it likes it, or not.

Right, first things first, choose the venue and get your equipment lined up. It maybe that your dog might like a shower, or is used to a bath, but often it’s better, on a mild to warm day, to wash them outside. Don’t wash them outside if it’s cold though, as you both might come down with a chill.

So, once you have the venue sorted, get the hose sorted out (for outside), plus some buckets of warm water, lots of towels (remember that dogs always shake themselves after getting wet, so bear that in mind especially if you’re indoors), shampoo (best use a special dog shampoo for this) and yes, have the dog’s lead at hand, just in case.

Also, vets now sell a teeth cleaning kit for dogs which consists of a toothbrush and toothpaste, although why they should be twice as expensive as the human version is a little puzzling. But if your dog is in a good mood, this might be a good time to get those gnashers cleaned as well.

Okay then, you’ve got the place sorted out, the kit and the dog is standing patiently at your side waiting for his bath. Unlikely, buts lets assume that’s the case.

First, give the dog a good brush to get rid of old, matted hair, and it also gives you a chance to look at his coat and skin, checking for any imperfections, or fleas etc.

Then, get the dog thoroughly wet – don’t skip on this part, ensure that your dog is wet all over. Rub in the shampoo (avoiding the head at first) and then work it in with firm hand strokes, getting into all those places that might harbour dirt. Leave the dog shampoo on for as long as the bottle says, allowing it to do its work. Next rinse until the water runs clear.

The head requires a more gentle version of the above procedure, but take greater care to avoid the eyes and deep inside the ears. In fact, some breeds have problems if they get their ears wet inside, so check that out. If you have a toothpaste kit, use it now.

Finally, place your dog on a large towel and start to dry it off, very thoroughly indeed. You might also consider a hair dryer if it’s cold, but take care that you don’t spook the animal. But even though you might be particular with the drying technique, they will always shake themselves afterwards, so stand back.

So there you are, one bath and one clean Fido. Just, as warned earlier, make sure that Fido wants a bath in the first place and if he doesn’t, you are the master. If not, forget it.

Tags: Dogs, Pet Care, Pet Guide, Pet Insurance, Pets

Let’s be honest, pets are now pretty expensive things and in these times of economic hardship quite a few people are thinking of ways of making their money go further when it comes to their dogs and cats especially.

It’s best not to dwell on all those pets which will be cast out onto the streets, or handed over to the sanctuaries because they cost too much, or they have become a nuisance. That is, unfortunately, an inevitable consequence of hard times, but most owners, thank goodness, understand that a pet is a member of a family and cannot simply be cast aside when times get tough.

So, the best thing to do is think about how your pet, like you and others members of your family, can make savings.

Now, one area which needs a little attention is the vet. It’s likely your pet will need some attention throughout its life. A young puppy, or kitten, will best be neutered and this will set you back anywhere from around £50 to £100.

Vets have recently been criticised by many for being far too expensive, but it’s difficult to see their costs coming down, even during harder times. Consultation charges are also a relatively new part of their charging scheme, maybe to combat the consumer’s choice to get a prescription from the vet and buy the prescribed drugs elsewhere, via say the internet. This can help offset a quite major cost, but don’t expect to be able to do surgery via the web! So, the old debate about whether it’s best to have pet insurance raises its head again. Over the lifetime of a dog, or cat, monthly payments of between £10 and £20 can add up, but with even minor operations costing around £200 payable in one go, pet insurance plans might make even more sense.

Right, so after the vet comes the day-to-day maintenance of your pet, in other words, what it needs to survive and maintain its role of favoured one.

And the next big issue is pet food. Way back when, pets were meant to manage on scraps and a few hard biscuits. Now, pet feeding is almost mirroring the human food industry with manufacturers convincing people that their pets need tasty chicken morsels, or lightly barbecued line caught sardine from the Pacific oceans. And look at the results, with many pets looking as obese as their owners. But it’s not easy to turn away from the persuasive powers of a pet food industry which is worth, in the U.K, a staggering £2 billion. That’s a lot of pet food and a lot of hype.

Experts say that the average pet owner spends £3.50 a week on pet food, but with the manufacturers bringing out new varieties all the time, this is climbing quite dramatically.

So, what happens if you want to save money? You have to buy a cheaper brand, or do it yourself, shunning the bright cans and foil trays.

Firstly, if we’re talking mainly about cats and dogs, it’s worth remembering that they are different in regards their nutritional requirements. They are both carnivores and both need six key components to maintain a healthy life: carbohydrates, proteins, fats, minerals, vitamins and minerals.

But then things begin to differ. Dogs only need around ten per cent of their diet to be protein, whereas cats need nearer 25%. This is why dogs can manage on a vegetarian diet, whilst cats can’t. Both get their calories mainly from the cereal in the pet food, but there is no set, or average intake. It’s been calculated say that human males need something like 2,500 calories a day, females around 2,000, but with so many breeds of cats and dogs, doing so many different things, it’s difficult to provide an average intake.

The only guide is that the more active the pet, the more calories it needs. So be careful if your pet is a couch-potato, because you have to keep a check on their carb intake.

As to food itself, meat products are sourced from the same abattoirs that supply the human food chain. So, technically the same meat that is used for humans, can be used for pets. Although, pet food manufacturers mostly use trimmings, offal and cheap cuts. Obviously, as with most food, the more expensive, the better the quality, or at least that’s how the theory goes.

But that does not necessarily rule out cheap pet food by any means. Experts say that as long as the particular brand of food offers a balanced blend of the components mentioned earlier, then there’s no problem. And as a rule of thumb, the less expensive the pet food, the less percentage of meat is included and the more say cereal is used to bulk it out. This can lead to problems with the pet’s weight of course, as the cereal is unnecessary and creates fat.

And in case you were wondering how to tell if it’s good enough, take a look at your pet’s poo. If the poo contains lots of undigested food and there is lots of it around, then it’s not doing your pet much good at all.

So, cheaper brands might save you money, but just be sure that they give your pet a proper diet and won’t make them fat.

But to take it further and make your own, that requires a little thought. And it comes back to all those individual components again. You have to ensure that the food you are providing for you pet has the right balance, otherwise you will be risking their health.

Off-cuts of meat and fish are favourites of the DIY pet food community, but in order to get the balanced bit right, you also have to offer up vegetables and food supplements.

And it’s recommended that you get some advice from your vet, as well as ensuring that you don’t mess your pet around too much, by offering it at a later stage of their lives when they might be too used to tinned pet food, or change your mind at times when you are too busy to prepare the food and so confuse the animal’s digestive system.

Tags: Pet Care, Pet Guide, Pet Insurance, Pets